Friday, 6 May 2016

Health and Safety

Health and Safety Risk Assessment


  • Heat Gun
  • Moderate risk of burns
  • User wears protective gloves

  • Silicone
  • Low risk of skin irritation or eye damage
  • User wears disposable gloves and safety glasses

  • Resin
  • Low risk of skin irritation, eye damage or fume inhalation
  • User wears disposable gloves, a respirator and safety glasses

  • Sewing Machine
  • Moderate risk of damage to hands, fingers and machine
  • User is properly inducted in using the sewing machine

  • Dremmel (electric)
  • High risk of damage to body
  • User wears protective gloves, dust mask and safety glasses

Spring Heeled Jack Evaluation



Evaluation

I decided to work on this project which combined the skills of costume design and making and mask making because I had enjoyed the costume making I had done in my last project and wanted to develop the skills I had learned there and develop them still further, but I also wanted to have another go at sculpting and casting a mask as this is where my real skill lies I believe.
I decided I wanted to base my work on a character from mythology or legend, it took me a while though to come up with a firm idea and then to develop my ideas into a final design. This time spent researching and designing has probably led to my feeling that I haven't quite achieved all I hoped. However I think I followed a good creative design process, coming up with ideas, researching to make them authentic, developing my own original ideas based on these designs and refining them further to reach a finished design.
There were a lot of elements to this project I tried to organise my time to have several elements of the project running alongside each other so that I made best use of my time and the spaces available in the workshops. On the whole I feel I managed this fairly well although my lack of confidence still means that I do not push forward to get the space I need and the resources I need to use all the time.
in terms of the costume elements of the project I have mixed feeling about the process and more particularly the finished costume. I think I built well on the skills I had learned with my coat in the last project in terms of pattern drafting. I managed to use books to inform me of style features and then drafted my own patterns with minimal support. I feel much more confident using the dot and cross paper and the pattern master, I understand it much better now. My tester garments helped me to see that the pattern pieces would make successful garments of the right size and gave me practice of aspects of the sewing which prepared me for the final pieces. The shirt was a simple pattern and apart from some sizing issues with the collar that I overcame I feel that this has been successful. I like that is historically accurate in terms of being a garment that would be worn all the time during the day and at night so it is oversized and long
The waistcoat with a less simple design especially around the collar was more of a challenge but i am happy with the finished garment. The fabric works well with it's almost flame like design and although I now realise having looked at a modern pattern that there is a technique for sewing the lining in a waistcoat that I didn't know I am pleased with the finish.
The tail coat was an ambitious garment to attempt. The pattern had many elements. I ordered samples of fabric and decided on a mid weight charcoal grey as I wanted to avoid black but keep with the sinister character of Spring- Heeled Jack. When the fabric came and I started to work with it I realised that I would have been better with a slightly more heavy weight fabric, however this was hard to tell from the sample. I feel a heavier fabric might have hung better.


I came across some significant challenges while making the tail coat but I tried to think them through and come up with solutions. I find this stressful but I have managed to overcome difficulties and reach a fairly successful outcome.
When it came to the details of the buttons I was keen to have something which did not look too modern. I decided to cover buttons with simple black fabric using another skill I had not tried before.
The trousers were made using a modern pattern for speed and are really just to finish off the costume for the display. I used to modern pattern to get the crutch pieces the right shape and made a simple version of the pantaloon style trouser which was popular at the time.
For my mask I wanted to revisit a technique I had used before but apply it to resin casting rather than fibre glass gel coat. This is a process that takes a long time to achieve the end result and you can't really rush it. I used chavant to make my sculpt. This takes a long time as the chavant is hard to work at first and takes time to build up a base layer. I however really enjoy this hand working process and like to see the features and details take shape gradually. I was very pleased with my sculpt, the finish was smooth and slick. Building up of the silicon is again time consuming as each layer needs to dry before another can be added. I tried really hard to do other tasks while waiting for the drying to occur
 I decided to use mod roc to create the jacket as this is quicker that plaster and this was very successful and the 3 parts fitted together well and held the silicon firmly .Casting with resin was something I had only experienced once before and not on a large scale. It took me a while to get the hang of mixing the right amount to coat the mask in the time before the resin became lumpy. I also was unsure how thick the resin would need to be. when it came to the time to remove the jacket and silicon I was anxious about what I would find, however I was really pleased with how the mask turned out, all the details from the original cast were present there were no blemishes. I used paint techniques to give the finished mask a metallic look which I think I have successfully achieved.


So my original intention was to further develop my costume skills and to showcase something I really enjoy which is sculpting and casting. How have I done. There is no doubt that the costume has been a challenge and I am slightly disappointed with the finish, it is not as perfect as I would have liked, I do feel pleased that I managed to create a whole outfit and the mask has gone some way to lessening my disappointment. I have learned from this project that it is much easier to do things that you already feel confident at but I have also attempted lots of new things without help and have managed largely to succeed at them. I think I could now tackle waistcoats with relative ease and would happily make many more resin masks using my silicon mould. Working on a whole project on your own with very different elements needing very different skills sets is a big challenge, I think I have overcome the challenge and definitely learned a lot from doing it. Would specialising in one small element be better, it would be easier and possibly the end result would be more perfect but as a learning opportunity this project has been demanding and rewarding.

Mask Creation


Finally getting round to making my mask after a long time of coming up with a design. Before hand I had started to give a plaster cast head a layer of chavant clay which is like a harder Plasticine. Next was bulking out the exaggerated facial features that my mask was going to have based on the research I had carried out. 


Using a heat gun to soften the chavant I then used various sculpting tools to smooth and mold my sculpt.




Here I've started to mark out the hair line and the horn positioning I'm very slightly struggling with symmetry but I think I'm getting there. Looking at pictures and holding the sculpt at certain angles helps.




I built up features like hair and the mustache with sausages of chavant that I blended in using a tool. 








once I was happy with my sculpt I built a clay wall around the bottom of the sculpt so the silicone wouldn't run off.


I wrapped the clay in a damp cloth to keep it soft over the weekend.


Sadly when I got back to it the clay had dried and fallen off so to make sure it wouldn't happen again I decided to make my wall out of chavant. This took some time as the chavant was a lot harder to cut and get into place.


The first layer of silicone was used to capture all of the detail in the sculpt. The only downside is that you don't put thickener in this layer so when I came back to it the next day a considerable amount of silicone had run off of the mask.



The next layer was much better as I added a thickener so it stayed o the sculpt a lot better. I cut up dried pieces of silicone to act as keys so my modroc jacket would have something to cling on to when it came to casting.



The sculpt is split into three sections so it'll be easy to remove the modroc jacket.


Make sure to build up walls down the edges of your jacket so you can screw the pieces together once everything has been taken off of the plaster head.


This is what I was left with after removing the silicone.


I used a drill to make some holes along the edges of my jacket and put screws in to hold the silicone skin in place.



Putting the resin into the mold was fairly straight forward. Mix equal parts of each of the white containers, this will dry and form the resin, stir well and pour into the mold. I moved the resin around as it hardened to make sure I covered all of the details.


This was done several times until I got the desired thickness.


Using a dremel I trimmed off all raw edges and sanded down any really thick areas.


I primed it ready for painting an sprayed it black.



I dulled down the gloss coat with sand paper to prepare for more paint.


I dabbed the mask with brown and black paint which I then wiped with red paint to give it a bronze look.


Finally I finished it off b mixing green with white to create the bright green rust that forms on copper and bronze.

Tailcoat Creation


This is a Victorian Tailoring book that had a collection of extremely helpful step by step instructions to draw out pattern pieces. The only issues I had with this book is that it had no instructions on how to sew any of the pieces together or how to construct linings so I had to guess a lot when it came to sewing and lining drafting.








My almost complete tester excluding the sleeves as I was confused about how to construct the cuffs as the boo didn't provide instruction. 



Starting to create the final tailcoat


These are some pattern pieces that I've interfaced to make slightly ridged like the collar. Simply cut it out and iron it on.



I had to solve the issue of the lapels because on my tester when the lapels were put in place the inside of the coat was showing so I drafted a section of my body pattern to sew into the inside to fill the gap. Linings were cut out slightly larger to allow flexibility but I struggled to sew lining into the tails and that's probably the only element of my tailcoat that I'm not too sure about. I also fabric wrapped buttons for my tailcoat.


Shirt Construction

I got quite a lot of books from the library that had anything to do with Victorian tailoring and clothing. An essential piece of clothing for the Victorian man was his shirt which would be worn almost constantly and this particular shirt has been worn and repaired from the 18th all the way to the 19th century.

Back then shirts were practically a bunch of squares and rectangles sewn together with gathering in the sleeves, neck and cuffs.



This are all the shapes for the shirt in the book with a numbered border to figure out the measurements for all of the pieces.


I tested my hemming skills as the shirt has a lot of it


(Hemming on the inside)

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   
First of all I hemmed everything and sewed on one edge of the underarm gusset to the un-sewed sleeve. This is also a first attempt at adding a neck gusset one of the shoulder which went 
surprisingly well but they were a bit temperamental at times                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           


I cut out the cuffs and collar and sewed them together so they were ready to be attached when I got to it.



Using a very long stitch on areas of my shirt that required gathering I pulled the thread and evened out the gathering to sew over with the machine.


I tested out the button hole setting on the sewing machine for future use.































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